'60 year old technology, contemporary application.' photo by Michael Sanglio via hydrodynamica.
In surfing I denounce the corporate that shapes the 'sport', pays for the performance and pushes the message that wins over the vulnerable and the unquestioning. In fashion it is much the same I distance myself from the seasonal rubbish and the homogenized cool. I make parallels here to both, because each is an extension of who I am and representative of my individuality. And yet we all must live in the moment and be a part of the greater experience of society. How then is this achieved and how is it possible to stay true to ourselves without disconnecting or going underground? I believe it's the ability to live in your own space and create a spacial awareness that is your own reality. Surfing for me is to feel a deeper connection, an awareness of it's rich cultural heritage. I see myself as a node on a tangent line that begins back in the Hawaiian islands at a time of Polynesian royalty and so I choose to ride boards whose designs break free of contemporary restraint, they are my instruments, freeform projectiles from which I create my own version of reality. Each board has it's own identity and idiosyncrasies and must be ridden in a certain manner, but all must be surfed in the conditions of the day amongst waves shared by other surfers. Even so, my boards and I exist almost exclusively in my own space as it's a reality that only I could create, a space every bit as individual and complex as myself. In this space I draw phosphorescence lines that leave a wake stretching back a millennium. I like it this way, it provides a purely individualist approach to something that is as common as high street fashion. It's my take, a projection of something deeper inside of me, it's my style and that's all that matters.
This forum is an opportunity for me to shoot shit on my favourite topics, namely surfing, board design, WWII military stuff, beachcombing and grass shack living and lets not forget vintage clothing and lots of other off beat and interesting stuff.
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