Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Papa Nui and the time space continuum.

'60 year old technology, contemporary application.'
photo by Michael Sanglio via hydrodynamica.

In surfing I denounce the corporate that shapes the 'sport', pays for the performance and pushes the message that wins over the vulnerable and the unquestioning. In fashion it is much the same I distance myself from the seasonal rubbish and the homogenized cool.
I make parallels here to both, because each is an extension of who I am and representative of my individuality. And yet we all must live in the moment and be a part of the greater experience of society. How then is this achieved and how is it possible to stay true to ourselves without disconnecting or going underground? I believe it's the ability to live in your own space and create a spacial awareness that is your own reality.
Surfing for me is to feel a deeper connection, an awareness of it's rich cultural heritage. I see myself as a node on a tangent line that begins back in the Hawaiian islands at a time of Polynesian royalty and so I choose to ride boards whose designs break free of contemporary restraint, they are my instruments, freeform projectiles from which I create my own version of reality. Each board has it's own identity and idiosyncrasies and must be ridden in a certain manner, but all must be surfed in the conditions of the day amongst waves shared by other surfers. Even so, my boards and I exist almost exclusively in my own space as it's a reality that only I could create, a space every bit as individual and complex as myself. In this space I draw phosphorescence lines that leave a wake stretching back a millennium. I like it this way, it provides a purely individualist approach to something that is as common as high street fashion. It's my take, a projection of something deeper inside of me, it's my style and that's all that matters.


  1. Plus one Papa !

    People who think it's a "sport" has comprehend nothing about Surf.

    Even if i'm the worst surfer of all the french mediterranean cost ;) i've got my own reality too.
    My reality is a little bit different, i'm feel connected to something more transcendant and mystical. It's like the time has stopped. Surfing for me is like have a little piece of Eternity.

  2. Johnny you go at it mate. I totally agree.What about drugs in sport. Drugs in surfing and corporates that sponsor these guys ? Rippa Quick Bong. Sure.