Chubby Mitchell's de-lightful touch at Makaha, circa late 1950's
I have lots of favourite surfing photos but this one is a stand out. There's a light-footed grace which speaks volumes about the essence of style.
Chubby Mitchell was a Hawaiian that moved to California in the early 50's and lived near Manhattan beach. Chubby was 5'7" played football for San Jose State College and was a superb athlete even though he weighed in at 285lbs. He was a jazz lover who was known for his cross stepping, nose riding, an enormous appetite, sharp wittedness and elegant ukulele playing. There's something about this photo that inspires me to want to strip back everything superfluous and to focus purely on the quintessence and soul of the foam dance.
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