Papa Nui studies cap styling in the South West Pacific.

Cap Styling.

When I conceived the idea for Papa Nui I was not looking to create a re-enactors brand or a replica product. Nothing could be further from the truth. Granted all my inspiration is drawn from original product but as I've discussed many times before the true goal in my projects was to create what we don't see. What I mean here is to encapsulate the individuality of the general issue serviceman. There's a misplaced belief that the world of war was a regimented and controlled environment when in fact it was as unique and chaotic as any other facet in human life. What I wanted to take note of was the idiosyncrasies of the average soldier and the way he carried himself and his personal style on the campaign trail, in the field of combat and in the forward bases.

This wonderful collection of photos below are screen shots from a short Smithsonian clip about aircraft Nose art and despite the interesting subject matter what really caught my eye was how each of the men featured here validated my point of view with their head gear. If they are wearing GI issues then its customised, bent, twisted or worn at a jaunt and adorned with personalised insignia, if its not issue then its private purchase or 'field' made. This is a really great lesson in authenticity as we must look deeper into our research for the finer details instead of skimming the surface and believing we have things right at a mere glance. At Papa Nui there is a solid belief that you don't completely own something until you customise it and that's why the Papa encourages all to wear his caps hard, to wash, and beat and trash and bend and then to resew or to decorate because at the end of the day as we can see in the images below, 'A man is the hat that he wears'.

Semper Papa!

An absence of months but new tees to show for it.

Sometimes we just get caught up in things and for the Papa its been a busy period of development and networking to ensure a brighter 2015. Add this to the convenience of papanuisays on Instagram and its easy to see how the blog can be neglected. For now then a glimpse of current projects, two new tees.

The Papa Fuckin Nui tee is the all time I don't give a shit print. Developed from a chance posting on facebook by Matt Stickland of  Warpath Leather regarding one's introduction to the Devil, the Papa was quick to capitalise on the quip. The quote more potent when considering the plight of independent makers globally competing in a market controlled by giants financed to the hilt. Papa Nui's punk rock ethos is underpinned by a killer skull graphic taken from a WWII Royal Navy battle flag and is printed on recycled tees from Dead Union Vintage. The art was recklessly compiled by young Adelaide artist Tobias Zwarthout whose brush stroke lettering makes these tees a defining statement of expression, "Im Papa Fuckin' Nui! who the hell are you?" a slogan spat eloquently at 'Inspiration' or the Devils doorstep, which ever comes first!

Number 2 on the hit parade is another longtime coming collaboration, this time with vintage aficionado, collector, artist and blogger supreme, Patrick Segui of Riveted. The Segui x Nui tee celebrates a mutual friendship built over the years via the net and based on an shared aesthetic of all things military, do it yourself and handmade. These are the very principles that Papa Nui was built on, a fascination of the resourcefulness of the soldier in the field, the can do attitude and the desire to make an old idea even better. Its a salute to the Seebees, the Riggers, the ground crews, the wheelers and dealers and a nod to Luther Billis and Milo Minderbinder.
The collaboration tee takes the form of the squadron mascot for VF-3 and bares the image of Felix the Cat. VF-3 was a aviation unit that flew Grumman F4F Wildcats off the decks of the USS Yorktown at the time of the battle of Midway and Patrick Segui's interpretation has Felix strumming on a banjo in a graphic style that enhances the feeling of a print done aboard ship whilst on active duty or 'field made'. The print is screened in water based inks and then hand painted by the Papa in an olive green acrylic wash, a technique passed onto the Papa by Patrick. The 'wash' gives the print depth and a sense of authenticity. Again the base tees are sourced via Canada by Dead Union Vintage so each one is completely unique and equally fucked up and used, yellowed and aged to perfection and resembling the personal tee of each Naval Aviator that grabbed theirs out of their kit to take down to some resourceful sailor who printed them up as unofficial totems for the squadron.

These tees are exclusive to the Papa and can be purchased for $45 USD. Email the Papa at rocket_ace47@hotmail.com for ordering and sizing info. All tees are limited to 30 pieces so to secure yours do not hesitate a moment longer alternately go to my store at
papa-nui-surf-surplus.myshopify.com

Denim musings

Recently the Papa travelled down to Adelaide, South Australia at the behest of Andy Watson, proprietor of the wonderful RHD store. Andy has put together perhaps the best array of contemporary premium denim labels under one roof, by far the best in Australia, The shelves are stocked with Samurai, Momontaro, Sugar Cane and Mr Freedom as well as the proverbial Nudies that help pay the rent. Andy and his side kick Akira Takahashi do an amazing job in switching denim aficionados onto the best brands available and also offer a wash service as well as a hem and repair service using their vintage Union Special machine guided by Akira's nimble and talented fingers.


RHD store Adelaide, the denim line up.

RHD x Papa Nui visit. From Atoll to Adelaide.

For the Papa this visit struck a chord. After a lifetime of wearing the Texas Tuxedo this past decade has been a denim wasteland. Bitterly disappointed with the offering of his first love Levi's and equally enraged that the Australian affiliate doesn't even stock the LVC product, the Papa in a sign of disgusted protest took to wearing pants instead!
Once the original heritage brand, Levis today represents an very inflated parody of itself. Outside of LVC the product is rubbish. The fabrics are thin and cheap on the thread count and the production quality is equally dubious. As for LVC which once represented such hope for the brands future the offering seems tired, uninspired and worse, greatly over priced. How much of a premium can a brand demand before the expectation becomes ludicrous? $950 for a copy Himel leather jacket? $495 for a chemically treated pair of buckle backs? Come on guys, a pair of Samurai's in Okayama 15oz indigo might be worth 400 clams but I find it hard to imagine that the Levis equivalent has as much ingrained soul or attentiveness to detail.
It would appear Levis is a victim of it's own heritage, unable to find a way to reinvent itself and offer a relevant offering in today's market whilst balancing a focus on constant growth and paying dividends to shareholders. Why not just be content in making the best jeans possible!
Other contemporaries are free of such historical parameters and paradigms. Free to explore, indulge and experiment, free to interpret history and make it over into their own image. Case in point, Japanese company Bootleggers Reunion/ Freewheelers and American company Rising Sun Jeans.
Bootleggers have progressively reached back in history, freely interpreting the 20's, the 10's and of late the decades proceeding the 20th century. The product offering has been exciting and unique and of a incredible quality in all respect from manufacture to detail, no skimping on cost no compromising on fabrics. This vision has rewarded them well, capturing the attention of an audience weary of XX rehashing.

Bootleggers rusted button detail and neckstrap.


Railmans pants

Loco shirt

Like wise, Rising Sun of Pasadena California under the guiding hand of owner Mike Hodis has created what the Papa feels is perhaps the most original take on denim that's occurred in the past 20 years.
Referencing remnants of denim jeans from a collection found in abandoned mines by Michael and Charla Harris, Rising Sun has reassembled a surviving pocket, a fragment of a leg, a remainder of a waistband a vestige of a cuff and made them whole again in their take on dungarees from the 1870's. These are not unlike old Levis but perhaps representing those brands that were buried by time and hidden from history in the dark dank surroundings of the mines they were discovered in, never ever seeing the daylight of the commercial success of their Red tab contemporaries. These styles are unique in every way and Mike Hodis manufacturers them with a poetic sympathy that shows respect for the rarity of their origins.

Seeing day light for the first time since 1870, Michael and Charla Harris collection.


Rising Sun remakes.


Mike Hodis the man behind Rising Sun.

Its Mike at Rising Sun and the guys at Bootleggers that are reinventing denim, its also Mr Freedom with his personalised vision and half a dozen other smaller brands trail blazing a new destiny for denim with integrity. But for certain its not Levis, nor Lee and definitely not Wrangler. It would appear that this heritage list of original manufacturers have made their peace with the masses, with conformity and homogeneity, with raking in profits before products. Its no wonder then that their vision is lacking despite their best efforts to trade on the legacy of their history. If they were truly serious about making a statement, if they truly wanted success and respect as is their due, then they should start by firing the endless parade of faceless design school graduates and bin their Illustrators and Photoshops their Cads and Corel draws, and instead put together a team of the Patrick Segui's of this world, the Arnaud Bauville's, the John Lofgren's, the Mike Hodis's or Larry McKaughan's, the very people that know denim, love denim and breathe denim. There's an army of indigo heroes out there collectively changing the way we think about the denim products we buy. For the Papa, they have created a reason to buy again, a reason to wear again and a real reason to get excited and enthused all over again. With my newly acquired Samurai S0500 and their silver selvage I am ready once more to don the denim and I thank all of those that have worn the mantle and raised the bar and revitalised an industry that once meant so much to me.

The Sea is MY brother.

 Just for the record.

The Papa says...Welcome!

A side note on Style.

At times we mistakenly think that it's the Sun Surf shirt or the Diamond gab that's going to give us that point of difference, but the Papa needs to point out that most often the 'what' isn't as important as the 'how'.

This image lifted from Japan's OC blog courtesy of Vintage Engineer Boots's John Villanuevado attests to that fact. The 'how' is hard at work here and the result is refreshingly individual.